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Meltemi Holidays

Catching the Meltemi breeze on Crete's eastern tip, cool, quiet and unspoilt Palekastro is just on the cusp of becoming a 'tourist resort'

With just a clutch of tavernas, a couple of bars and one disco, this charming rustic village is gradually making concessions to tourism - but it's a long way off from joining the ranks of the could-be-anywhere-in-the-world resorts. The modern apartments and hotels sit cheek by jowl with very traditional Cretan houses - one of which is now a folk museum, complete with old world furniture and utensils. Scooters have replaced donkeys for local transport, and you could hire one in the village for effortless trips to Chiona beach, a 20-minute walk away, or for the 8km run to the neighbouring resort of Vai. More famous than 'PK' - as the village is affectionately known - it has fast food bars, a lively night scene and a superb sandy beach, backed by Europe's only natural palm forest. A well-trodden track from here leads to the Greco-Roman ruins of Itanos, and other historic sites in the area include the Monastery of Toplou, the Minoan city at Rousolakkos, and Zakros - where a walk past tombs in the 'Valley of the Dead' gorge makes a short cut to the island's fourth Minoan Palace. However you wind down in PK, this peaceful corner of Crete will charm the flip-flops off you.

A quiet and unsophisticated place, holidays in Palekastro are just about making their mark on the tourist map. Right at the eastern tip of the island, this former farming village has a handful of tavernas, a couple of bars, a single disco, and a small (but growing) collection of modern accommodation for leisurely summer holidays. In Palekastro 'leisurely' covers everything - from unhurried meals that last all evening, to morning strolls to Chiona beach, about 20 minutes away.

Of course you could cut that time (and effort) with scooter hire. There's a surprising variety of places to visit if you do, and your transport will be temptingly cheap. Holidays in Palekastro put you in a great position for Crete's eastern attractions. Topping the list is the sandy beach at Vai, just 8km down the road. It's backed by Europe's only natural palm forest, and the fast food bars and lively night scene up the tempo a bit. And a trio of historic sites will vie for your attention - the pretty Moni Toplou monastery, Greco-Roman ruins at Itanos, and the island's fourth Minoan Palace at Zakros.

So where do you stay? Self-catering holidays in Palekastro Villas could be the perfect place for couples or families …blissfully peaceful in their setting by a semi-deserted beach. You'd be wise not to wait till the last minute. Holidays in Palekastro haven't hit wholesale proportions yet …which is all the better for the few who have discovered unspoilt 'PK'.